001" or so, with proper bearings and crushsleeve preload. 005" Check your greenbook, but to me that pinion TIR should be down around. I know you can only shim up the trans mount until the T5 damn near hits the tunnel, to minimize the engine/trans angle, whereas the rear axle should have adjustment left.is the engine/trans optimized without cutting up your tunnel?ĮDIT - you state: Note: The connection at the pinion that the rear yoke bolts to has negligible runout - <. Even tho your drivetrain angles seem to match, those look a bit high. Was she smooth as silk in the same range of driveshaft speed before storage? and I think the common denominator has always been Poly mounts and/or solid steel linkages, which you apparently have both of. I've read over the years on TB of folks having these nasty driveshaft / rear axle vibration issues. At minimum you've removed the tire influence and you can video the drivetrain or just observe it. Switched from Carrera shocks back to Bilstein HDĪnyways - open for any comment, wisdom, or any other diagnostics I should try.ĬOULD be rear tires.sometimes long storage will cause flatspotting, but that should remove itself with heat of operation (especially if they have "nylon cap ply").ĭid you do any testing with the vehicle rear axle on stands? Run her thru the gears (carefully) and see if the driveshaft/rear axle "lights up" at that same vehicle/driveshaft RPM. Trans was in and out a couple of times on this one.ĥ. Moved from spherical to poly-bushed rod-ends on the torque rodsĤ. ![]() ![]() Time - the car has mostly sat for about 5 years.ģ. This car has worked well in the past with typical T5 chattering but never a speed-dependent vibe like this - I was always able to get the car to cruise pretty well at 90mph if I wanted. Performs well and never clunks or balks in turns. Same with trans slip yoke (once the driveshaft is installed).ĭiff can grumble a bit and whine sometimes but no more than it ever has. Wiggling pinion yoke I can feel no lateral play in any direction. 020" number is taken from the driveshaft itself just fore of the pinion yoke. Note: The connection at the pinion that the rear yoke bolts to has negligible runout - <. 020" runout on surface of driveshaft at pinion. Fairly sure this is not a wheel / tire issue.Ĭhecked runout on driveshaft installed - turning by hand I switched front and rear wheels - no change. After reinstalling it cured a low-speed clunk on accel (failing u-joint) but otherwise no change to the problem.Ĭhecked radial and lateral runout on wheels, tires, hubs. Had the driveshaft rebalanced at Scotty's Driveshaft here in Austin (reputable) to check if it was OK. I've dialed in the static driveline angles as closely as possible. Direzza II tires mounted by expert installer. I was down < 1/2" on fluid in the pumpkin. Pinion seal is leaking, has been forever. Spec clutch, TTV 12lb flywheel, modified Volvo PP - Installed 2013 but not driven on much Trans was rebuilt by D&D in 2006 - have put about 20k miles on it max. Bilstein HD (changed from some long carrera shocks of unknown valving) All other rear bushings are polyurethane Black Housing&tierSeven=&home=true&fscount=1 (Torque rods were originally fitted with spherical bearing rod ends.) Kaplhenke adjustable torque rods, retrofitted with Steinjaeger rod ends. Recently rechecked for high speed balance, new u-joints. Note: I removed a main exhaust hanger trying to track down this problem so that's why exhaust tubing looks precarious. Hoping someone else can put eyes on this and give me some observations. ![]() (After that is just more normal driving footage below 65 mph that I didn't edit out of the clip). Here's a vid taken with a polaroid cube stuck to a frame rail - at 20 seconds I start to accelerate through the gears - at 40 seconds the vibration sets up in 4th gear and I clutch-in, shift to neutral, coast down. Clutch-in it gets slightly worse - it's unsettlling. After that - the vibration sets in, increasing with road speed. It's completely speed dependent - I can rev the motor to redline in lower gears on the way to 65mph with zero issues. I can coast down to below 65mph and it goes away again. At this point I will clutch-in and take it out of gear - the vibration gets slightly worse as the driveline unloads. I can feel it in the seats and the shifter, never in my steering wheel, and as I get closer to 75 mph it gets sketchy enough that I haven't tried to drive through it to see if it goes away. The biggest challenge I'm having right now is a high speed vibration that starts around 65mph. ![]() Recently de-mothballed my p1800 and I've been getting a lot of things sorted out.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |